Friday, 27 February 2015

The Ultimate Guide for Anonymous and Secure Internet Usage

The Ultimate Guide for Anonymous and Secure Internet Usage 



 Table of Contents:
1. Obtaining Tor Browser
2. Using and Testing Tor Browser for the first time
3. Securing Your Hard Drive
4. Setting up TrueCrypt, Encrypted Hidden Volumes
5. Testing TrueCrypt Volumes
6. Securing your Hard Disk
7. Temporarily Securing Your Disk, Shredding Free Space
8. Installing VirtualBox
9. Installing a Firewall
10. Firewall Configuration
11. Installing Ubuntu
12. Ubuntu Initial Setup
13. Installing Guest Additions
14. Installing IRC (Optional)
15. Installing Torchat (Optional)
16. Creating TOR-Only Internet Environment
17. General Daily Usage

By the time you are finished reading and implementing this guide, you will be able to securely and anonymously browse any website and to do so anonymously. No one not even your ISP or a government agent will be able to see what you are doing online. If privacy and anonymity is important to you, then you owe it to yourself to follow the instructions that are presented here.

In order to prepare this guide for you, I have used a computer that is running Windows Vista. This guide will work equally well for other versions of Windows. If you use a different operating system, you may need to have someone fluent in that operating system guide you through this process. However, most parts of the process are easily duplicated in other operating systems.

I have written this guide to be as newbie friendly as possible. Every step is fully detailed and explained. I have tried to keep instructions explicit as possible. This way, so long as you patiently follow each step, you will be just fine. In this guide from time to time you will
be instructed to go to certain URLs to download files. You do NOT need TOR to get these files, and using TOR (while possible) will make these downloads very slow. This guide may appear overwhelming. Every single step is explained thoroughly and it is just a matter of following along until you are done. Once you are finished, you will have a very secure setup and it will be well worth the effort. Even though the guide appears huge, this whole process should take at the most a few hours. You can finish it in phases over the course of several days.

It is highly recommended that you close *ALL* applications running on your computer before starting.

1: Obtaining Tor Browser

The first step to becoming secure and anonymous online is to setup and install something called "TOR". "TOR" is short for Onion Router". The concepts behind TOR were first implemented by the United States Military, and these principles have been used to create an extremely secure mechanism for being anonymous online. In fact, millions of people world-wide use TOR to browse the internet and communicate anonymously.

TOR works by heavily encrypting your communications so that no observer can see what website you are really going to, and what information is really being sent. It all appears as a bunch of random characters to any observer. You simply use the TOR web browser just as you use any other web browser. TOR takes care of the rest.

However, TOR by itself is not enough. Even when using TOR, a user can be compromised in a number of ways. First, some websites can be set up to attempt to reveal someone's true IP address (their true identity) by tricking their web browser or other software to transmitting that information. For this reason, anyone who uses TOR will recommend that no one have javascript or flash turned on while browsing TOR. In this guide however, I will show you a much better solution.

The second issue is that of human error. Even if you have TOR installed, you may accidentally forget which browser to put in a link. You may also accidentally click on a link from another program, such as a chat program. That program might then load the link you clicked on into a non-TOR browser. When you are using TOR, you must be careful *constantly* that every link goes into the right browser, and that you do not accidentally click the wrong link.

So then, let's begin. Obtaining the TOR Browser is easy. Simply go to the following website: http://www.torproject.org

Once here, you may feel free to read more about what TOR is and how it works, or you may proceed to immediately download TOR.

Here is how to do so:

1. Click on "Download TOR", or "Download".

2. You will see text that says, "The Tor Browser Bundle contains everything you ned ... Just extract it and run. Learn more >>

3. Click on this "Learn more" link. for the "Tor Browser Bundle"

4. Assuming you are an English speaker, you would choose the top-most link "English (en-US)". Otherwise, pick the language best suited to you.

5. The file being saved will be named: tor-browser-1.3.18_en-US.exe

It is ok if the number is not exactly 1.3.18, there are new versions of Tor from time to time. At the time that this guide was written, 1.3.18 was most current. By the time you are reading this, a more current version of TOR may exist.

6. Run this file.

7. You will be prompted to extract this to a directory. By default, it will be set to C:\Users\You\Downloads\ This is perfectly ok. You can also choose a different directory if you wish.

8. Click "Extract"

That's it. TOR Browser is NOW installed. Time to test it out!

2 : Using and Testing Tor Browser for the first time

Now you have successfully downloaded and installed the Tor Web Browser Bundle. You are no doubt anxious to begin using it. First, click on the "start" menu icon, the icon in the lower left of your screen with the windows logo. On the top right will be a listing that says "You", "Documents", "Pictures", "Music"... "You" of course will be replaced by your user name. Click on "You", the top most link. This will open up your main user folder.

Now, locate the folder called "Downloads" and double click on it.

Now, inside the "Downloads" folder, double click on the folder called "Tor Browser".

Lastly, double click on the application: "Start Tor Browser"

When you do, you will see the Vidalia Control Panel appear, and you will observe as you connect to the TOR network. When this is complete, your web browser will open up and will automatically connect to the web address: check.torproject.org

This is to confirm that you are in fact using TOR. If you have followed this guide correctly, then you will see the following green text, or something similar:

"Congratulations. Your browser is configured to use Tor."

Now you can use this web browser the same as any other. You can go to any website you wish, and neither your ISP or anyone else will be able to see where you are going, or what you are doing. However, there are still issues that need to be resolved, so
don't begin browsing just yet.

Important Safety Note

If you fill out a form containing your email address, your name, or any other sensitive information while using the TOR browser, be aware that sometimes it is possible for an observer to see that information. When using TOR, use it to access websites and
content that you are *not* connected to via your real identity or any username or nick name which links to your real identity. Let TOR be for anonymous browsing solely. Do your online banking, or any other activities involving your real identity using your normal web browser.

3 : Securing Your Hard Drive

Being able to browse anonymously is one thing. However, you may choose to download and save sensitive content or material to your computer which you wish to keep private. This may include reading sensitive documents, viewing pictures, or storing any kind of sensitive data.

If you save *anything* to your computer's harddrive, then it is possible for someone who has confiscated your computer to determine what it was you saved. This is often true even if you delete the content. For example, suppose I use the Tor Browser and I navigate to a website containing a sensitive document that I wish to read. If I saved that document somewhere on my harddrive, then it is possible for someone else to find it. If I *delete* that document, it may still be possible for someone to undelete it.

Further, even if I never save it to my harddrive but I simply look at it using my word processing software, it may still be saved ina number of ways including:

1. Often programs keep records of filenames. The filename alone is often enough to incriminate someone.

2. Often programs keep parts of the content viewed saved for various reasons, such as for searching. This can include random excerpts of text, thumbnails of images, and more. Often this "partial" data is more than enough to prove what the original data was. Often the "partial" data is itself incriminating.

3. Sometimes, especially if you are running low on system memory, your operating system may choose to use your hard-disk as a temporary RAM. This is known as "SWAP". Normally, whenever you turn off your computer, whatever was in RAM is deleted. However, the data that goes to your SWAP may persist and it may be possible for someone to see what content you had open in your programs if that information is saved in RAM.

Generally speaking, you *must* have a plan to secure any content that is saved to your hard disk. Therefore, this guide would be incomplete if we did not thoroughly address this. First, there are two kinds of such content:

1. Deliberately saved content.
2. Inadvertently saved content.

Deliberately saved content refers to content that you have chosen to save on your harddisk so that you can access this content later. We will address how to do this later in the guide.

Inadvertently saved content refers to content that is saved by programs you use, or your operating system. You have no way to even know what this content might be. Therefore, this is the most dangerous. You may browse and find a dozen sensitive documents, utterly delete them, and some program may have saved the file names and excerpts of the data. This will render your previous efforts futile.

Content that is inadvertently saved to your harddisk comes in two flavors:

1. Content that is saved to your SWAP space.
2. Content that is saved by applications running on your computer, including your operating system.

The surest way to prevent content from writing to your SWAP space is to disable your SWAP space altogether. This may result in your computer running a bit slower than normal, and may mean that you cannot use ram intensive games and applications during the time your SWAP is disabled.

Therefore, if you use this method, simply turn back on the SWAP when you want to use those ram intensive applications. Also, you may choose not to take this step.

Here is how to disable your swap space if you are using Windows 7:

*This step is recommended for advanced users only. If you are not comfortable doing this, you may safely skip this step.*

Instructions are less verbose than usual, as these steps are intended for advanced users only. If you do not fully understand these instructions, skip this step.

1. From Control Panel, go to "System and Security".
2. Click on "System", and then choose "Advanced system settings" in the left-most menu.
3. Under the "Advanced" tab, under "Performance", click "Settings".
4. Under this "Advanced" tab, under "Virtual Memory", click "Change"
5. Uncheck "Automatically manage paging file sizes for all drives"
6. Select "No paging file"
7. Save, reboot, and follow these same first 5 steps to confirm that "No paging file" is still selected. This means that you have successfully disabled your swap. This means that *nothing* from RAM will be inadvertently saved to your harddrive.

To resume using SWAP again, simply click "Automatically manage paging file size for all drives." You can switch between these two modes as you desire.

Generally speaking, your computer will run fine without a swap file, provided you have enough RAM.

END OF ADVANCED INSTRUCTIONS



The next issue we need to address is how to prevent applications and/or your operating system from saving content inadvertently that you do not want saved. For this, we are going to set up a "Virtual Machine".

A "Virtual Machine" is like a computer inside of your computer. Everything you do inside the Virtual Machine (vm for short) will be fully contained within itself and no one will be able to see what the vm has been doing. Ideally, you want *ALL* of your sensitive computer usage of any kind, TOR or NON TOR, to take place within a vm. In this way, you can keep everything private that you wish while still using your computer fully and getting the most out of it.

Don't be afraid of this sounds complicated. This guide will take you through every step slowly and methodically. Before we can set up a vm however, we need to take another step.

4 : Setting up TrueCrypt, Encrypted Hidden Volumes

If you save anything on your computer, it is likely that you do not want just anyone to be able to see what you have saved. You want a way to protect that information so that you can access it, and absolutely no one else except those you trust. Therefore, it makes sense to set up a system which protects your information and safeguards it against prying eyes.

The best such system for this is called "True Crypt". "True Crypt" is an encryption software program which allows you to store many files and directories inside of a single file on your harddrive. Further, this file is encrypted and no one can actually see what you have saved there unless they know your password.

This sounds extremely high tech, but it is actually very easy to set up. We are going to do so, right now:

1. Go to http://www.truecrypt.org/downloads (or go to http://www.truecrypt.org, and click on "Downloads")

2. Under "Latest Stable Version", under "Windows 7/Vista/XP/2000", click "Download"

3. The file will be called "True Crypt Setup 7.0a.exe" or something similar. Run this file.

4. If prompted that a program needs your permission to continue, click "Continue".

5. Check "I accept and agree to be bound by these license terms"

6. Click "Accept"

7. Ensure that "Install" is selected, and click "Next"

8. click "Install"

9. You will see a dialog stating "TrueCrypt has been successfully installed." Click "Ok"

10. Click "No" when asked if you wish to view the tutorial/user's guide.

11. Click "Finish"

At this point, TrueCrypt is now installed. Now we will set up truecrypt so that we can begin using it to store sensitive information.

1. Click the "Windows Logo"/"Start" button on the lower left corner of your screen.
2. Click "All Programs"
3. Click "TrueCrypt"
4. Click the "TrueCrypt" application

And now we can begin:

1. click the button "Create Volume"
2. Ensuring that "Create an encrypted file container" is selected, click "Next"
3. Select "Hidden TrueCrypt volume" and click "Next".
4. Ensuring that "Normal mode" is selected, click "Next"
5. Click on "Select File"

Note which directory you are in on your computer. Look at the top of the dialog that has opened and you will see the path you are in, most likely the home directory for your username. An input box is provided with a flashing cursor asking you to type in a file name. Here, you will type in the following filename:

random.txt

You may of course replace random.txt with anything you like. This file is going to be created and will be used to store many other files inside. Do NOT use a filename for a file that already exists. The idea here is that you are creating an entirely new file.

It is also recommended though not required that you "hide" this file somewhere less obvious. If it is in your home directory, then someone who has access to your computer may find it easier. You can also choose to put this file on any other media, it doesn't have to be your hard disk. You could for example save your truecrypt file to a usb flash drive, an sd card, or some other media. It is up to you.

6. Once you have typed in the file name, click "Save"
7. Make sure "Never save history" is checked.
8. Click "Next"
9. On the "Outer Volume" screen, click "Next" again.
10. The default Encryption Algorithm and Hash Algorithm are fine. Click "Next"
11. Choose a file size.

In order to benefit the most from this guide, you should have at least 10 gigabytes of free disk space. If not, then it is worth it for you to purchase some form of media (such as a removable harddrive, a large sd card, etc.) in order to proceed. TrueCrypt can be used on all forms of digital media not just your hard disk. If you choose to proceed without obtaining at least ten gigabytes of disk space, then select a size that you are comfortable with (such as 100 MB).

Ideally, you want to choose enough space to work with. I recommend 20 GB at least. Remember that if you do need more space later, you can always create additional TrueCrypt volumes using exactly these same steps.

12. Now you are prompted for a password.

Read This Section Carefully

The password you choose here is a decoy password. That means, this is the password you would give to someone under duress. Suppose that someone suspects that you were accessing sensitive information and they threaten to beat you or worse if you do not reveal the password. THIS is the password that you give to them. When you give someone this password, it will be nearly impossible for them to prove that it is not the RIGHT password. Further, they cannot even know that there is a second password.

Here are some tips for your password:

A. Choose a password you will NEVER forget. It may be ten years from now that you need it. Make it simple, like your birthday repeated three times.

B. Make sure it seems reasonable, that it appears to be a real password. If the password is something stupid like "123" then they may not believe you.

C. Remember that this is a password that you would give to someone if forced. It is *NOT* your actual password.

D. Do not make this password too similar to what you plan to really use. You do not want someone to guess your main password from this one.

And with all of this in mind, choose your password. When you have typed it in twice, click "Next".

13. "Large Files", here you are asked whether or not you plan to store files larger than 4 GIGABYTES. Choose "No" and click "Next"

14. "Outer Volume Format", here you will notice some random numbers and letters next to where it says "Random Pool". Go ahead and move your mouse around for a bit. This will increase the randomness and give you better encryption. After about ten seconds of this, click "Format".

15. Depending on the file size you selected, it will take some time to finish formatting.

"What is happening?"

TrueCrypt is creating the file you asked it to, such as "random.txt". It is building a file system contained entirely within that one file. This file system can be used to store files, directories, and more. Further, it is encrypting this file system in such a way that without the right password it will be impossible for anyone to access it. To *anyone* other than you, this file will appear to be just a mess of random characters. No one will even know that it is a truecrypt volume.

16. "Outer Volume Contents", click on the button called, "Open Outer Volume"

An empty folder has opened up. This is empty because you have yet to put any files into your truecrypt volume.

Do Not Put Any Sensitive Content Here

This is the "Decoy". This is what someone would see if you gave them the password you used in the previous step. This is NOT where you are going to store your sensitive data. If you have been forced into a situation where you had to reveal your password to some individual, then that individual will see whatever is in this folder. You need to have data in this folder that appears to be sensitive enough to be protected by truecrypt in order to fool them. Here are some important tips to keep in mind:

A. Do NOT use porn. Adult models can sometimes appear to be underaged, and this can cause you to incriminate yourself unintentionally.

B. Do NOT use drawings/renderings/writings of porn. In many jurisdictions, these are just as illegal as photographs.

C. Good choices for what to put here include: backups of documents, emails, financial documents, etc.

D. Once you have placed files into this folder, *NEVER* place any more files in the future. Doing so may damage your hidden content.

Generally, you want to store innocent data where some individual looking at it would find no cause against you, and yet at the same time they would understand why you used TrueCrypt to secure that data.

Now, go ahead and find files and store them in this folder. Be sure that you leave at least ten gigabytes free. The more the better.

When you are all done copying files into this folder, close the folder by clicking the "x" in the top right corner.

17. click "Next"

18. If prompted that "A program needs your permission to continue", click "Continue"

19. "Hidden Volume", click "Next"

20. The default encryption and hash algorithms are fine, click "Next"

21. "Hidden Volume Size", the maximum available space is indicated in bold below the text box. Round down to the nearest full unit. For example, if 19.97 GB is available, select 19 GB. If 12.0 GB are available, select 11 GB.

22. If a warning dialog comes up, asking "Are you sure you wish to continue", select "Yes"

23. "Hidden Volume Password"

Important Read This

Here you are going to select the REAL password. This is the password you will NEVER reveal to ANYONE else under any circumstances. Only you will know it. No one will be able to figure it out or even know that there is a second password. Be aware that an individual intent on obtaining your sensitive information may lie to you and claim to be able to figure this out. They cannot.

It is HIGHLY recommended that you choose a 64 character password here. If it is difficult to remember a 64 character password, choose an 8 character password and simply repeat it 8 times. A date naturally has exactly 8 numbers, and a significant date in your life repeated 8 times would do just fine.

24. Type in your password twice, and click "Next"

25. "Large Files", select "Yes" and click "Next".

26. "Hidden Volume Format", as before move your mouse around for about ten seconds randomly, and tehn click "Format".

27. If prompted "A program needs your permission to continue", select "Continue"

28. A dialog will come up telling you that the hidden TrueCrypt volume has been successfully created. Click "Ok"

29. Click "Exit"

Congratulations! You have just set up an encrypted file container on your hard drive. Anything you store here will be inaccessible to anyone except you. Further, you have protected this content with TWO passwords. One that you will give to someone under threat, and one that only you will know. Keep your real password well protected and never write it down or give it to anyone else for any reason.

Now, we should test BOTH passwords.

5. Testing TrueCrypt Volumes

Once you have completed the above section, you will be back at TrueCrypt. Go ahead and follow these steps to test the volumes you have made.

1. Click "Select File..."

2. Locate the file you created in the last section, most likely called "random.txt" or something similar. Remember that even though there is both an outer and a hidden volume, both volumes are contained in a single file. There are not two files, only one.

3. Click "Open"

4. Choose a drive letter that you are not using (anything past M is probably just fine). Click on that, For example click on "O:" to highlight it.

5. Click "Mount"

6. Now you are prompted for a password. Read the below carefully:

The password you provide here will determine WHICH volume is mounted to the drive letter you specified. If you type in your decoy password, then O:\ will show all the files and directories you copied that you would reveal if forced. If you type in your real password, then O:\ will show the files and directories that you never intend anyone to see.

7. After successfully typing in your password, you will see additional detail to the right of the drive letter, including the full path to the file you selected as well as the kind of volume it is (for example, hidden).

8. Right click on your "Windows Logo"/"Start Menu" icon, and scroll down to the bottom where you can see your different drive letters. You will see the drive letter you selected, for example: "Local Disk (O:)". Click on that.

9. If you selected your decoy password, you will see all the files and folders that you moved there during the installation phase. If you selected the real password, you will see whatever files and directories you have placed so far into the hidden volume, if any. If you selected your hidden volume password, you may now begin moving any sensitive information you wish. Be aware that simply moving it from your main hard disk is not enough. We will discuss how to ensure deleted data is actually deleted later in the guide.

"What is happening?"

When you select a file and mount it to a drive, you are telling your computer that you have a new drive with files and folders on it. It is the same thing as if you had plugged in a usb flash drive, a removable harddrive, or an sd card into your computer. TrueCrypt causes your computer to think that there is an entirely new disk drive on your computer. You can use this disk drive just as if it *was* actually a usb flash drive. You can copy files to it, directories, and use it just as you would use a usb flash drive.

When you are done, simply close all open windows/folders/applications that are using your truecrypt drive letter, and then click "Dismount" from within TrueCrypt while you have the drive letter highlighted. This will once again hide all of this data, accessible only by re-mounting it w
ith the correct password.

Apple Watch Event Announced for March 9

Apple Watch Event Announced for March 9

apple watch
(Getty)
Apple has announced an Apple Watch event for March 9. Consumers first got a sneak peek of the upcoming Apple smartwatch during the launch of the iPhone 6. The base model of the Apple Watch is expected to cost around $350, and the watches are expected to go on sale in April. The pricing of more premium versions of the Apple Watch is still unknown, but all should be revealed during Apple’s event on March 9. If you want one of the more premium watches from the Apple Watch line, ZDNet suggests you might have to pay up to $4,000 for the gold version. You can see photos of all the Apple Watch variants in our Apple Watch gallery.
Apple has sent out invites for the event, which are emblazoned with the words “Spring forward.” This is likely a reference to both the forward-thinking design of Apple’s watch, as well as the common “spring forward, fall back” adage used to remember Daylight Savings Time. This year, Daylight Savings Time begins March 8, just one day before Apple’s scheduled announcement.
The event will be held at San Francisco’s Yerba Buena Center for the Arts. It will kick off at 10 a.m. local time. If Apple’s most recent livestream for the iPhone 6 and new iPads is any indicator, we can expect that Apple will livestream the Apple Watch event will be streamed over the Apple TV and Apple’s own website. Here’s hoping the livestream doesn’t have the same issues that plagued the iPhone 6 livestream.
Top 5 Best Smart Watches
What time is it? Time to get a new watch.
Click here to read more While Apple seems to be optimistic about the public reception of their Apple Watch, some tech insiders wonder if Apple’s first watch will be a flop. Reuters reports that Apple has ordered at least five million Apple Watches. However, this new device does have some potential drawbacks. Cult of Mac notes that the device is water-resistant, but not fully waterproof. On top of that, the Motley Fool writes that the audience for the Apple Watch will be limited to people who own newer iPhones. Additionally, the battery life is rumored to be only about one day, so it will need to be recharged quite frequently.
In their report on the announcement, the Verge referred to Apple’s first smartwatch as “Apple’s first landmark product introduction since Steve Jobs unveiled the original iPad in 2010.” Wearables may not be a new category, but people have been waiting for years to see Apple’s take on the smartwatch.
Whether you plan to buy an Apple Watch or not, it should be interesting to see how things shake out after the March 9 event. Apple’s smartwatch could be the company’s next big thing, but it could also be a high-profile flop. We’ll have to wait until next month to know which way the wind is blowing.

This can’t be real: Leaked Galaxy S6 earbuds look like blatant Apple EarPod ripoffs

This can’t be real: Leaked Galaxy S6 earbuds look like blatant Apple EarPod ripoffs

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galaxy-s6-concept-smit
It’s still much too soon to pass any final judgements and call Samsung’s upcoming new Galaxy S6 handset an iPhone ripoff. Yes, some of the evidence thus far has been fairly damning — this leaked Galaxy S6 vs. iPhone 6 photo comparison lets you be the judge — but everything is just a rumor until Samsung makes it official during its press conference on Sunday.
After plenty of evidence has piled up to suggest that Samsung took some pretty obvious inspiration from Apple’s iPhone 5 and iPhone 6, a new leak suggests that Samsung’s tendency to borrow from Apple may have just crossed over from flattering to just plain sad.
DON’T MISS: Is the Galaxy S6 really an iPhone ripoff? Leaked comparison photo lets you be the judge
On Thursday, we showed you a supposed leaked photo of the bottom of a Galaxy S6 compared to a photo of the bottom of an iPhone 6. It would be hard to deny the resemblance from that angle.
The comparison photo can be seen in this post.
Now, new leaked photos posted on the Vietnamese forum Tinhte.vn supposedly show Samsung’s new earbuds that will ship with the Galaxy S6 and Galaxy S6 Edge, and they look very… familiar.
Where oh where have we seen something like this before?
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.Samsung-Galaxy-S6-earbuds-2
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.Samsung-Galaxy-S6-earbuds-1
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.Samsung-Galaxy-S6-earbuds Ah yes, now I remember… Apple’s EarPods:
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.Apple-EarPods Sheesh.
Samsung will unveil its new Galaxy S6 and Galaxy S6 Edge smartphones during a press conference this coming Sunday in Barcelona, Spain.
Related storiesGalaxy S6 already dominates MWC... and the show hasn't even startedHere's how you can watch Sunday's HTC One M9 and Galaxy S6 events liveMore signs of trouble emerge for SamsungMore from BGR: HTC One M9: Massive new leak offers videos, specs and so much more
This article was originally published on BGR.com
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  • Apple iPhone 6 vs. Xiaomi Mi 4 Review


    Xiaomi Mi 4 vs Apple iPhone 6 (image: Ewan Spence) Xiaomi Mi 4 vs Apple iPhone 6 (image: Ewan Spence) For many, Xiaomi’s Mi 4 is the talismanic smartphone that is almost invisible in the West. Xiaomi, often referred to with the moniker ‘China’s Apple’ is seen as the leading ‘clone’ company of Apple’s iPhone. Now I’ve reviewed the Mi 4 here on Forbes, that labelling is out of place. Yes there are similarities, but put any two modern touchscreen smartphones next to each other and you will find areas of commonality. You’ll also see the relative strengths and weaknesses of the two handsets.
    So let’s do that. Let’s take Xiaomi’s Mi 4 (released August 2014) and put it in a head-to-head next to Apple’s iPhone 6 (released September 2014).
    Design, Duplication, And Differentiation
    As noted, at first glance the Xiaomi Mi 4 does have an echo of the iPhone. It’s just that it echoes the more angular design of the iPhone 5 and iPhone 5S family. With a metal band running around the edges at 90 degrees to the glass screen, with a slight chamfer at the join to prevent a hard edge being felt, and thin metallic buttons for power and volume, that first glance is the closest you will get to mistaking the handset for an iPhone.
    You’ll note that the back of the Mi 4 has a convex bevel, which lifts the edge of the handset up from the surface of the table, and provides a touch more internal volume. The camera and LED flash is in the central axis, not left of centre like the iPhone, and the plastic back is slippy and does not match the tactile quality of the iPhone 6.
    That said, the greater surface area on the edge of the Mi 4 and the curve on the back plate mean the Xiaomi handset sits far more comfortably in the hand than a naked iPhone 6.
    Xiaomi Mi 4 vs Apple iPhone 6 (image: Ewan Spence)
    Xiaomi Mi 4 vs Apple iPhone 6 (image: Ewan Spence)
    The Mi 4 does not go for ‘thin and fashionable’, it is a square-jawed chiselled-chin powerhouse of 8.9 mm (compared to the iPhone 6′s 6.9mm), and is 20g heavier than the 6.
    The iPhone feels like a little bit more care has been spent on it. The physical home button is far easier to locate by touch than the touch sensitive area of the bevel on the Mi 4 (and of course it has TouchID, useful for unlocking, security, contactless payments and more); the volume and power buttons on the iPhone have great haptic feedback, and the choice of materials in the iPhone make it feel like a ‘better’ phone.
    The iPhone 6 wins the design category, not because it was ‘first’. It wins because it feels more modern, it feels like it has been designed with a huge amount of attention, and it looks unique.
    (Read my long-term review of the Apple iPhone 6 here).
    Two Evenly Matched Displays
    With a five-inch display and 1080p resolution (1080 x 1920) the Xiaomi Mi 4 screen is both bigger in pixels and physical size than the iPhone 6′s 750 x 1334 4.7 inch screen. Apple’s handset sticks with the by now traditional 326 pixels per inch, while Xiaomi clocks in at 441 ppi.
    Given the extra pixels, it is strange that the iPhone screen feels like it can show more information. Through smaller fonts and a tighter user interface, iOS 8 in the iPhone 6 offers more information on the screen at one time. Because of the increased density, it actually feels older than the Mi 4. Its use of MIUI pushes a palette with more pastel tones, featuring gentle gradients of color. The extra pixels are used for a better environment, rather than more information.
    This is a tough one to judge. Both screens are IPS LCD based screens, with LED backlighting, both are comfortable to use and offer wide viewing angles and the ability to alter the color tone on display. But the cramped nature of the iPhone 6 is pushing me every so slightly towards the Mi 4, and I don’t want to chicken out and say a score draw.
    Xiaomi Mi 4 vs Apple iPhone 6 (image: Ewan Spence)
    Xiaomi Mi 4 vs Apple iPhone 6 (image: Ewan Spence)
    Next page: the battle of the operating systems and the batteries…
    Vanilla iOS or Themed Android?
    Xiaomi Mi 4 vs Apple iPhone 6 (image: Ewan Spence)
    Xiaomi Mi 4 vs Apple iPhone 6 (image: Ewan Spence)
    Normally in these comparisons I reserve my ‘score draw’ for the OS battle. Both iOS and Android are perfectly capable of handling the modern smartphone world, and as the capability of the two platforms line up, the choice is less about differentiation and more about personal preference.
    There will always be small areas that can make a huge difference to an individual (Apple Pay, iCloud, Google Now, Android Wear support), but tribal loyalty will always be a huge part of a comparison.
    In the case of the Mi 4 I’m going to make an exception and not casually skip over a pit of flamewar. The Mi 4 is a Chinese smartphone. Unsurprisingly, the Mi 4 is tied in heavily with the Chinese market and the sensibilities around the cultural norms there. My Mi 4 is an imported handset, and while it is on sale outside of China, these sales are restricted to territories such as Singapore and Taiwan…not the United Kingdom, Sweden, or the US.
    That means the look and feel of MIUI is one step removed from the normal Android experience. This is an Android look that does not have an app drawer (which curiously brings it closer to Apple) but it does allow widgets and apps to be mixed on the screen. The settings and dialog screens feel like a tweaked version of Android, while MIUI’s habit of putting a big picture at the top of the screen and the information on the bottom half gives a consistent but new way of presenting information. It will take some getting used to.
    Neither is there Google Play Support for the Chinese variant of the Mi 4. A modified version can be downloaded from the Xiaomi App Store, or if you source a handset from Singapore then Google Play Services will be available out of the box, although you’ll need to load in all of the Google Apps.
    One huge advantage that MIUI and the Mi 4 has is the ability to theme the OS. This is a huge but expected feature in China, and you’ll find skins online that replicate every OS under the sun (yes, even iOS), but also as advertising and marketing for feature films, TV shows, and cuddly toys, You’ll find radical reworkings of manga-inspired UIs , and as long as you are happy to navigate the Chinese app store to check out all the artwork options, it’s likely you won’t stay on the MIUI default theme for long.
    (Read my standalone review of the Xiaomi Mi 4 here on Forbes).
    This category is still a score draw, because the newness of MIUI that increases the learning curve also encourages you to tinker with the software to get it running correctly. That does add complexity, but it is balanced out in my mind by the strong theme support giving you far more control over the look of your device.
    If you like Android and the open nature of that OS, then the themeing of MIUI is going to be very welcome. If you’d rather the simplicity and single design ethos of iOS, then stick with Apple.
    Xiaomi Mi 4 vs Apple iPhone 6 (image: Ewan Spence)
    Xiaomi Mi 4 vs Apple iPhone 6 (image: Ewan Spence)
    Performance, Power, And Positivity
    If you were to look at the numbers in the specification sheet, then the clear winner in terms of performance should be the Xiaomi Mi 4. With a 2.5 GHz quad-core CPU, Adreno 330, and 3 GB of RAM, the Mi 4 is squarely in the high-sepcs Android space, although this space is about to get some 64-bit competition at Mobile World Congress next week which will nudge the Mi 4 down a step on the ladder. Right now the Mi 4 tops the benchmarks of the currently available handsets in the AnTuTu benchmark website.
    The numbers are still higher than the iPhone 6, with its 1 GB of RAM and 1.4 GHz dual-core CPU inside the A8 system on chip, but numbers, as we’ve said many times, are not the only judge of performance.
    Both handsets are fast and smooth in operation. Apple has managed this through optimisation and making the best use of the integration of software and hardware development, while Xiaomi has went with building in reserves of grunt and power. Xiaomi’s win is more about the slickness of MIUI – Samsung could learn a thing or two about skinning Android and keeping things smooth.
    Ultimately the Mi 4 has more potential because of the raw power available. Unlike other Android devices it has used that power wisely and smartly, so it just shades a victory in performance.
    Next page: The battle of the Sony cameras, value for money, and the final score…
    Xiaomi Mi 4 vs Apple iPhone 6 (image: Ewan Spence)
    Xiaomi Mi 4 vs Apple iPhone 6 (image: Ewan Spence)
    The Camera Battle Of Sony Vs Sony
    One thing to note about the Xiaomi Mi 4′s camera is that it’s actually Sony’s technology. Xiaomi make no bones about this, so it’s a similar shoot-out here to the iPhone 6 vs Sony Xperia Z3 Compact from late last year (complicated by the fact that Apple also uses some Sony parts in its camera unit).
    Apple is the clear winner here. The extra technology Cupertino has added to the camera, including the use of focus pixels to speed up the shot-to-shot time, is a huge benefit and imparts a confidence that you çan always get a good shot. With easy access to burst mode for rapid fire pictures, the slow-mo mode for video capture, the general level of simplicity in Apple’s app the software makes this an easy win for Apple.
    The East vs West perceptions kick in here as well. While Apple has done its best to keep a natural tone to the images that it takes, Xiaomi has really pushed the color reproduction here, and as a result every picture is a bit more vibrant, a bit more pop, and to my eyes a bit more artificial. All of these can be corrected in post production, but the Mi 4 is a touch too aggressive for me under normal circumstances.
    Battery Life And Endurance
    With a paltry 1810 mAh battery in the iPhone 6, Apple’s leading smartphone struggles to make a full day of heavy use. It’s a weakness of the thin design, partially balanced out by the chips and screen of the iPhone 6 requiring less power. Even though Xiaomi’s 3080 mAh battery is far larger, the faster processor (with twice as many cores), extra memory, and larger screen, all require more power. While the Mi 4 can last a full day, it doesn’t go much beyond that.
    One issue that I found was the larger battery of the Mi 4 meant that to reach 100% charge took longer on Xiaomi, even with its fast charge technology. Keeping both handsets topped up is key to continued usage, and that gives Apple an edge in terms of time required.
    Both handsets are at the low-end of acceptability for battery life. Xiaomi shades it in terms of running time, and even though the iPhone 6 has a shorter charge time, I’m still awarding this to the Mi 4 for the longer endurance.
    Xiaomi Mi 4 vs Apple iPhone 6 (image: Ewan Spence)
    Xiaomi Mi 4 vs Apple iPhone 6 (image: Ewan Spence)
    Availability
    This is an easy win for the iPhone 6. It’s available worldwide, in vast numbers, and even if you aren’t close to an Apple Store any major electrical chain or carrier is going to have the handset in stock.
    Obtaining an Xiaomi Mi 4 is a little harder. It’s sold online in China, so you have to be confident you want it, and while there is availability outside of China, any western fan of the brand is going to have to resort to the grey import market to obtain a device. Not only does that drive the price up, but it also creates issues around warranty and servicing. That reduces the impact of Xiaomi’s relatively low price for the powerful handset.
    Naturally it’s a slightly different story in China, where I would put both handsets on a par in terms of availability, so do take that into consideration if you are living in Xiaomi’s home territory. For everyone else the shorter supply chain, warranty and repair route, and ease of access, hands this to the iPhone 6.
    Final Thoughts
    The ‘clone’ tag that hangs around the Xiaomi Mi 4 is tough to escape from, but the handset has earned the right to be seen as a standalone product. It performs well, it is tailored for its home market, and it does everything you would expect of a smartphone. Just like Apple, the Mi 4 is part of a wider play by Xiaomi to build up its user base and credentials as a strong consumer brand – if there’s any part of the Apple strategy that has been admired and absorbed, it is this part, not the external design of the smartphone.
    Xiaomi has a strong Android handset, with a more than competent operating system and impressive cloud support for its users. The Mi 4 is a handset that will not leave you asking for more.
    Neither does the iPhone 6 leave you wanting. Apple’s strategy plays out in this smartphone just as much as the iPad or the MacBook range of computers and laptops. It also delivers a solid smartphone experience, perhaps with a bit more of a restricted vision but that focus allows for more innovation in smaller and more delicate areas that gives the iPhone 6 a more rounded and professional feel.
    In terms of scores in the category breakdown, there was one draw, Apple took three victories (design, camera, value for money) and Xiaomi took the other three (display, performance, and battery life). Personal preference is going to play a big part in any decision, as is your geographic location. Outside of China the winner is the iPhone 6, but inside China it is a much closer contest.
    Given the view early last year that Apple was nowhere close to being competitive in China, that’s a massive turnaround for Tim Cook and Cupertino. Xiaomi are unlikely to spread much outside of the regional footprint it has, so the closest challenger to the iPhone is not going to cause too much mischief in the rest of the world.